Articles by admin

• Why Is My Pet Limping?
• Shaping Your Dog Up for the Summer
• “Cinder” the Miracle Kitty

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Why Is My Pet Limping?

Lameness or limping, in pets can be defined as a decrease in a pet’s ability to put weight on a limb or a decrease in the normal mobility and function of a limb. Canine limping indicates a structural problem, pain, or weakness in the affected leg. Sudden lameness is most often caused by an injury, such as a cut on the paw, a torn nail, or muscle strain. If you find your pet limping, the first thing to do is to locate the site of pain or problem.

Where Does It Hurt?

First, try to determine which leg is involved. A pet usually holds up the paw or puts less weight on the affected leg. He usually takes shorter steps on a weak or painful limb. His head bobs as his weight comes down on the affected leg. Once you have identified which leg is the cause of his limping, try to determine the specific site of the problem. Take a look at the paw pad and between the toes. Look for injuries such as sprains, pad lacerations, broken nails, and puncture wounds. If you cannot find anything wrong with his paw, feel carefully and gently the whole leg from the toes up. Apply gentle pressure to see if any place is tender or swollen. If you are not sure whether anything is abnormal, compare the affected leg with the other normal one. See if the affected leg is any different. Then focus on the joints. Flex and extend all the joints from the toes up to the shoulder. Pay attention to see if there is any stiffness or lack of easy movement.

Joint pain is evident if the dog tries to pull his leg free or cries out in pain when you try to flex the joint. By doing the above, you will be able to locate the site of pain or problem. See your veterinarian to diagnose the cause of limping.

Below are come common causes of lameness in pets

• Sprains and Strains: These are rather common especially among active pets. Your friend limps suddenly and the site is often swollen, tender, and sometimes bruised. Lameness caused by sprains and strains can last for days or even weeks. In most cases, the pet can bear some weight on the affected leg.
• Paw Injuries: Paw injuries, such as lacerations and foxtails, can be painful and the pet usually will lick the injured paw constantly. If the wound has become infected, the area will become red, warm, and tender. There may even be pus coming out from the wound. As the infection worsens, the limp gets steadily worse as well.
• Bone Fractures: Bone fractures are an uncommon cause of lameness. A pet may get a bone fracture after being hit by a car, or stepping in a gopher hole, for example. Fractures cause severe pain and the pet is unable to bear any weight at all on the affected leg. When fractures cause lameness, they can be almost anywhere in the leg or hip, and the fractures can be mild (slight cracks in the bone) or serious (compound fractures where the bone is shattered into pieces). You may see some degree of deformity and swelling in the leg.
• Dislocations: Dislocations usually are caused by car accidents or falls from a considerable height. Dislocated joints cause sudden severe pain and the pet is unable to bear any weight at all on the affected leg. You may see some degree of deformity in the leg – the elbow or knee may be bent, with the leg pointing either toward or away from the body.
• Ruptured Ligament: Another cause of limping is a ruptured ligament in the stifle joint (knee joint). This happens very often to young, active and energetic dogs. The sudden onset of lameness in a rear leg suggests a rupture. The lameness may subside with rest, but may recur with exercise.
• Spinal Cord Injuries: Spinal cord injuries are usually caused by car accidents, falls, or intervertebral disc disease. The pet may suffer from neck or back pain immediately after the injury. He may limp, stumble and develop fecal or urinary incontinence. One or more limbs may be weak but without pain.
• Inherited Bone and Joint Diseases: Dogs with inherited bone and joint diseases are usually young or middle-aged. These types of diseases come on gradually. Swelling can usually be seen on the affected leg. The limping gets worse with time. Examples of inherited bone and joint diseases are hip dysplasia (a common cause of rear leg lameness), elbow dysplasia (a common cause of front-leg lameness), and panosteitis (“pano” or commonly called wandering lameness because the pain and lameness shift from one limb to another over the course of several weeks or months.)
• Degenerative Joint Disease: Aka arthritis or osteoarthritis, this type of joint disease is most the common cause of lameness in older dogs and cats. Usually, the limping is worse when the pet gets up and improves when he starts walking around.

Diagnosis of Limping

If your pet is limping and you are unable to identify the underlying cause, it is essential to take him to the veterinarian for a proper diagnosis.

Diagnosis is made using one or more of the following:

• Physical Examination: To determination the location and possible cause of the limp
• X-ray: To determine if there are any fractures or dislocation.
• Bone Scan: CT Scan or MRI: These scans are useful in diagnosing tendon, ligament, and muscle damage.

Treatment options

There are a lot of variations of treatment options for your pet depending on the type and severity of the injury and the age of your dog. Some soft tissue injuries can be treated with rest and anti-inflammatory edications such as Rimadyl or Metacam, while more severe injuries like torn cruciate ligaments or meniscus will require orthopedic surgery and rehabilitation. Still other long term degenerative conditions can be controlled and maintained with more homeopathic remedies such as acupuncture or hydrotherapy. Some of the common treatments and dietary supplements recommend by Dr Yen and Dr Reid are list below.

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Shaping Your Dog Up for the Summer

Exercise is as essential to dogs as it is to humans. It is profoundly tied to a dog’s physical, mental and emotional health. A sedentary dog is a bored dog, often an overweight dog, and, in general, a less healthy dog.

How much exercise one’s pet can handle depends on many factors including age, fitness level, medical condition, and breed. Signs of being out of shape and over exercising include drooping of the head and tail, panting excessively or abdominal breathing for more that a few minutes. Symptoms of underlying medical conditions can include coughing, hoarse breathing, tiring more easily, limping or walking in a hunched or crouched fashion. If your pet exhibits any of these signs, a physical exam by a veterinarian is needed before an exercise program is continued. Always make sure your pet has an exam and is current on vaccines prior to beginning an exercise program.

Certain breeds are not meant for distance running. Pugs, English bulldogs, and other flat-faced breeds can get overheated very easily and should only be given short frequent exercises. Some large breed dogs are predisposed to hip dysplasia and ligament tears in the knee so even if your big guy enjoys running off leash or playing fetch in the park, there is a chance it may be causing more harm than good.

Check with Dr. Yen or Dr. Reid about a possible modified exercise program that may include controlled leash walks or swimming instead of running for certain breeds, fitness levels or medical conditions. Moderation is key. Two shorter brisk walks will be less stressful on joints than one long walk. A brisk walk should have the following four components:

• 5 minute warm-up, gradually increasing in pace
• Brisk walk for 10–30 minutes, depending on fitness level
• 5 minute cool-down, gradually decreasing in pace
• Drink of water

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“Cinder” the Miracle Kitty

In late May, the Berkeley Humane Society suffered a tragic and devastating fire that not only left them with major building and electrical damage, but also caused the deaths of several beautiful cats that were being housed in their cat adoption ward at the time of the blaze. Cinder arrived at the humane society the same day of the horrific blaze. She was brought to us after the fire to be treated for smoke inhalation and recovered completely. She is FeLV/FIV negative, up to date on all of her vaccinations and has been spayed. She is all black with a small patch of white on her belly and an absolute love bug. She’s a little miracle kitty who survived the blaze and is now looking for a new home. If you are interested in meeting “Cinder” give us a call or stop by and we can arrange for you to spend some time with her.

UPDATE: Cinder has since found a loving home!

• Could your pet be allergic to fleas?
• Fleas are not always the cause of itchy skin!
• Having trouble deciding on the right flea control?

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Could your pet be allergic to fleas?

Studies have shown that there are over 15 different antigens in the saliva of the flea. Each one of these is capable of causing an allergic response in a sensitive cat or dog. Despite recent advances in flea control, flea bite allergies and flea bite dermatitis still continue to be common problems.

Cats and dogs rarely become desensitized to flea bites once they develop an allergy. Cats and dogs that are not allergic to flea bites rarely develop lesions from the bites, but may bite or scratch at the flea when it bites them. There does not appear to be a breed or sex predilection for this allergy.

Flea bite allergy is characterized by being a seasonal allergy that is worse during peak flea times in the summer and fall. Even in temperate areas or in cases with home infestations, the symptoms of flea bite allergies appear to worsen in the summer and fall. Pets that have flea allergies will bite at the base of their tail and scratch frequently. Even a few fleas can cause hours and days of intense itching. Many pets have a characteristic loss or thinning of hair above the base of the tail. In addition, fleas or flea dirt (feces) can be found on the pet the majority of the time. The feces, or flea dirt will dissolve into a red color when moistened; this is because it is primarily digested blood. However, if the pet is bathed or treated regularly, little evidence of fleas may be found. Severely affected pets may itch over their entire bodies, have generalized hair loss, and red inflamed skin.

Dogs and cats with flea allergy dermatitis can have a broad spectrum of symptoms including miliary dermatitis, characterized by crusty papules(small, red, raised skin lesions that follow no specific pattern), symmetrical hair loss(alopecia) and moist dermatitis (hotspots).

Diagnosis can be made usually by visual signs, pattern of hair loss and history in combination with the presence of fleas or flea dirt. A number of topical and oral preparations are available to use as flea control. It is best to use an adulticide, which kills the adult fleas, plus an insect growth regulator (IGR) as well. IGRs help to kill immature forms of the flea, preventing them from developing into biting adults. Talk to your veterinarian about what flea product(s) will work for your pet. In choosing the product, your veterinarian will consider the severity of the flea allergy, the severity of the flea infestation, whether your pet goes outside or to the park, whether there are multiple pets in the household, how easy it is for you to treat your pet, among other topics.

Environmental treatment for fleas involves treating the house, outside areas your pet may frequent, and especially sleeping areas and bedding with an insect growth regulator. IGRs prevent immature forms of fleas from developing, but nothing works against the pupae stage except mechanically removing them by vacuuming. Carbon dioxide from exhaled breath and vibrations from vacuuming can stimulate the pupae to hatch and emerge as adults. Vacuuming with a flea collar, and proper disposal of the cleaner bag can be very beneficial. Pupae can remain in the environment for years before sensing the carbon dioxide and vibration and emerge. Other pets in the home should also be treated also as they could continue to bring fleas into the environment. While there are many methods available today to treat and care for flea allergies and symptoms, an effective flea prevention program is much safer and easier than dealing with a full blown flea infestation.

Common Flea Allergy

Read on to page 3 for information about different flea control products currently available through your veterinarian and the differences between them.

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Fleas are not always the cause of itchy skin!

Depending on the type of allergy, your pet may exhibit different symptoms. Although pets occasionally exhibit watery eyes and some sneezing, the most common reaction is scratching. Constant scratching may lead to raised infected welts, open sores, and loss of hair. Ear infections are also common in dogs with allergies.

Pets who are affected by allergies may suffer their entire lives; typically symptoms worsen as they get older. We can help alleviate some of that suffering by knowing the signs of allergies and finding the right type of product relief for the symptoms.

Types of Allergies That Affect Pets

There are four types of allergies that can affect your pet. Allergies caused by things your pet inhales are termed airborne allergies. Common sources are pollens, molds, and dust mites. Allergies that result from flea-bites are referred to as flea allergies or flea-bite dermatitis. Certain allergies occur from items your pet ingests, and are typically called food allergies. Contact allergies or allergic dermatitis are caused by something your pet comes in direct contact with, such as carpet fibers, plastics, and other things. Contact allergies (plastics, carpet fibers, detergents) are far less common than inhalant allergy and flea allergy dermatitis in pets. These allergies may cause:

• Red itchy bumps or blisters on sparsely-haired areas of the skin and those exposed to the allergen such as the belly, feet, or muzzle
• Intense scratching
• Hair loss (in chronic conditions)

Food allergies account for about 10% of all allergies in dogs and cats. Food allergies may show up concurrently with allergies to pollen, dust, etc. Symptoms include:

• Itching, especially face, feet, trunk, limbs and anal area
• Ear problems, often yeast-related
• Skin infections that respond to antibiotics, but then recur as soon as the antibiotic therapy ceases. Occasionally, dogs with true food allergies may have increased bowel movements and soft stool. Food allergies should not be confused with food intolerances, which are not true allergies, and generally cause diarrhea and vomiting.

If you suspect your pet has allergies or chronic skin problems, visit your veterinarian. The type of condition and severity of its symptoms will determine how your veterinarian decides to treat them.

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Having trouble deciding on the right flea control?

Controlling fleas on dogs and cats and preventing flea infestation in the home can be a real challenge, particularly during the warmer months of the year.

The most common mistake pet owners make is waiting until their dog or cat is already infested with fleas before trying to control the flea population. Though there are many flea prevention medications which are quite effective, most of the commonly available products for flea control and prevention are much more effective if used preventively.

By the time you start seeing fleas on your dog or cat, you are too late to institute effective flea prevention. 80% of the flea population is in the form of flea eggs, pupae and larvae already present in your home. And these juvenile fleas will continue to mature in your home and infest your dog or cat.

It can take up to eight months for a flea egg to hatch and develop into an adult flea. This means that regardless of the flea product that you use on your dog or cat, it will likely take several months to get rid of the flea infestation in your house if the flea infestation is already well established. And, in the meantime, you will still see adult fleas appearing on your dog or cat as these eggs hatch out.

These new fleas will be effectively killed once they reach your pet, assuming you have treated your pet with an effective flea control product. However, no flea control product applied to a dog or cat will be able to kill flea eggs and larvae pre-existing in the environment because the product will likely not come into contact with these eggs and larvae.

The best way to control fleas on your dog or cat is to start treating for them preventively, before you see any fleas on your dog or cat. Stop them before they get started and you will not have to worry about flea infestations. If you are not currently using a flea prevention product on your dog or cat, you should start doing so immediately. Beginning flea control measures now for your dog or cat will save you a lot of aggravation and expense in the summertime when fleas are rampant.

Do not stop giving the flea prevention medication in the winter. Many people believe that fleas cannot breed and reproduce in the winter. This is not always true. Under certain conditions, fleas are able to actively reproduce, even in the middle of winter. Crawl spaces under your home, dog houses and other sheltered areas provide adequate conditions to allow fleas to reproduce all winter long. Fleas can also breed and reproduce very well inside your home all winter long.

There are many good flea prevention products available. These are the ones we carry and usually recommend.

• Frontline Plus (Fipronil & Methoprene)
  Fipronil is the chemical that kills the adult biting flea, tick, lice and sarcoptic mite. Methoprene is the growth regulator. This is the product that can last for up to 3 months. This kills the flea larva, egg and prevents the pupa from developing. The catch is that if the parasites are not on the pet, the chemicals will not work on the animal. Safe for puppies & kittens 8 weeks and older. Application every 3 wks is recommended for dogs and cats who are allergic to fleas.
• Sentinel (Milbemycin oxime/lufenuron)
  Sentinel acts as a heartworm preventative as well as intestinal parasite prevention and controlling flea populations. Sentinel does not kill the fleas but acts as a birth control making the flea eggs sterile and thus preventing 80% of the flea population from developing into adult fleas. This product is an oral medication given once a month for dogs only and is safe for puppies over 4 wks old and weighing over 2lbs.
• Revolution (Selamectin)
  Selamectin is absorbed into the skin and goes into the bloodstream. This product selectively filters through the skin to be a flea preventative. Selamectin also kills heartworms in selective stages of growth. Revolution is available in both adult sizes and kitten/puppy sizes. Revolution is labeled for killing adult fleas, flea eggs, heartworms, ear mites, hookworms and roundworms in cats, and adult fleas, flea eggs, hookworms, ear mites, sarcoptic mites and American dog ticks in dogs. This product is absorbed into the skin so it does not wash off. It is typically applied once a month, for allergic dogs and cats, application every 3 weeks is recommended.
• Comfortis (Spinosad)
  Spinosad is an oral medication for dogs only, over the age of 14 weeks. Spinosad effects the motor neurons of the adult fleas causing hyperexitation, paralysis and death. When given to your dog each month, Comfortis tablets kill adult fleas before they are able to lay their eggs. Because this is an oral medication, it may be a good choice for dogs who are avid swimmers or if you or your dog don’t like the feeling of the greasy topical medications.
• Capstar (nitenpyram)
  Nitenpyram is an oral medication that provides fast flea relief and starts working within 30 minutes. A single dose will kill the adult fleas currently on your pet-you will literally see fleas falling off your pet. It is also remarkably safe so if your pet gets reinfested, you can give another dose as often as once per day. CAPSTAR is safe for use in kittens and puppies over 4 wks old and weighing over 2lbs, and can even be used in pregnant or nursing pets. CAPSTAR also works well in conjunction with Sentinel.

There are many products on the market. Consult your veterinarian to determine which product is best suited for your pet.

• The Whole Tooth and Nothing but the Tooth!
• Common Questions about Dental Disease
• What Can You Do at Home for Your Pet’s Teeth?

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The Whole Tooth and Nothing but the Tooth!

Facts about Dental Disease

Periodontal disease is the single greatest challenge in dentistry and it is the most frequently seen condition in the veterinary hospital. Gum disease affects 85% of dogs and cats over three years of age.

This disease of the supportive structures of the teeth is progressive, unrelenting, usually non-regenerative, and incurable. With proper care, however, it is manageable, and one must think prevention rather than cure when thinking about this disease.

Plaque can be deposited on the tooth’s surface as quickly as six hours following prophylaxis (dental cleaning). This is why veterinarians recommend brushing you pet’s teeth regularly, preferably daily.

Dangers of Periodontal Disease in Pets

The most dangerous aspect of periodontal disease is that build-up below the gum line is not obvious to the untrained eye. It can only be detected by a trained person using a dental explorer. The untrained tooth cleaner will remove material for cosmetic reasons, while the disease process is left untreated to advance above or below the gum line.

Most pets as well do not enjoy fingers and instruments in their mouths and only the veterinarian is trained and skilled in the use of today’s sedatives and anesthetics. However, all kittens and puppies should be taught to tolerate their owners brushing their teeth.

What to Expect When You Take Your Pet in for a Dental Examination

During a professional examination, a veterinarian will examine your pet’s mouth for early signs of tumors and other infectious or degenerative processes. A pet owner seeking professional dental care can expect the following in a comprehensive oral health assessment and treatment:

• A thorough physical examination of the pet prior to sedation or anesthesia
• An in-depth examination of the entire oral cavity
• Removal of plaque and tartar above and below the gum line
• Polishing of the sulcus (groove) to remove debris
• Application of Oravet Plaque Prevention Gel
• Home care instructions
• A follow-up appointment to re-evaluate the patient’s condition and determine long term home care

If you are concerned about your pet’s dental hygiene and his or her general health, seeking veterinary care will not only benefit your pet, it will also assure you that the job has been done correctly, thoroughly, and by a veterinarian.

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Common Questions about Dental Disease

What does my pet’s bad breath come from?

Halitosis can come from several different sources. The most common source is overgrowth of bacteria in the mouth. Some of these bacteria produce sulfur compounds as waste products which impart an unpleasant smell to the breath. Normal breath in dogs and cats should not smell bad, but may smell of the food they just ate. Another source is kidney or stomach disease, which should be ruled out by your regular veterinarian. If they just ate something odiferous their breath may smell bad temporarily, but should clear in an hour or so.

My dog has dirty teeth. I have tried cleaning them myself with canine toothpaste and brush, but it doesn’t seem to help much. I do not want my pet to undergo general anesthesia. Is there anything else I can do? His gums bleed sometimes.

Teeth must be cleaned to remove calculus and plaque. Bleeding gums is a sign of gingivitis and developing periodontal disease. While daily brushing is necessary and recommended, it cannot keep all the teeth entirely clean indefinitely. Animals, just like humans, must have periodic professional cleanings. To do this thoroughly and completely, anesthesia is necessary. Then, the client can brush the patient’s teeth daily to maintain good oral health and prolong the time between such professional cleanings. There is no way for the client to scale the pet’s teeth effectively at home. While the cosmetic effect may be pleasing, underlying disease is being missed and tooth loss can still result. To be performed thoroughly, and all disease identified and treated, it must be done when the pet is under anesthesia. After the initial scaling and oral health evaluation by the veterinarian, the client can help maintain the pet’s oral health by daily tooth brushing.

I have heard of anesthesia free dentals. Are they effective?

Unfortunately these are not effective. No self-respecting dog or cat will allow a person to do a thorough subgingival scaling and polishing while awake. The subgingival portion of the cleaning is the most important component since this is the area in the mouth where plaque and bacteria can cause the most damage. In addition, quality dental radiographs cannot be properly obtained while the patient is awake. Furthermore, most dental procedures performed on patients with moderate to severe dental disease will involve some degree of discomfort, so providing anesthesia is a humane approach compared to anesthesia-free optionsHow often should I have my pet’s teeth cleaned?

This depends on the individual animal. Some dogs and cats, particularly the smaller breeds, or those with “squished” faces, need cleanings at least annually. Larger breeds may be able to go a little longer between cleanings. But the way to be sure is to have your veterinarian assess your pet’s oral health at each examination so you can arrange to have them cleaned before periodontal disease sets in. Our pets are like humans in that regard. They are all different and there are no general rules for all.

My cat picks up his food and drops it. Sometimes his mouth opens and closes rapidly when this happens. Why?

Dropping food may be a sign of tooth pain caused by a condition similar to tooth decay. This pet should be examined; dental radiographs may also be necessary.

Why must my pet’s teeth be pulled?

Teeth are usually extracted because of severe periodontal disease, fractures, resorptive lesions, misalignment, and other problems that cause discomfort or difficulty in chewing.

My pet’s tooth is fractured. What should I do?

Only two choices for treatment are practical. The veterinarian may extract the tooth or perform root canal therapy. Leaving it alone is not an option because it will result in infection of the pulp (probably already present), which can cause pain and other medical problems. Even if the pet is eating and acting normal, the fracture should be evaluated and treated.

My pet has both baby and adult teeth in place. What should I do?

This is a common problem, particularly in small breeds. The baby teeth must be surgically removed to allow sufficient room for the adult teeth. If this is not done as soon as it is discovered it may cause permanent orthodontic problems. Please have them evaluated right away.

What kind of food is best for my animal’s teeth?

There is a dizzying array of pet foods available today. Many claim to be good for the pet’s oral health. BUT, only those which have the Veterinary Oral Health Council seal of approval, (VOHC seal), have proven through research that they do what they claim. Some control plaque formation, and some mechanically clean the teeth. The most important thing to remember is to feed the amount based on the weight your pet should be, and not to exceed that to avoid obesity.

Should my pet eat hard or soft food?

The answer to this varies with the individual pet. Cats, for instance, will not adjust to changes very readily. And the truth is that dogs and cats do not “chew” their food. They break it or tear it into smaller pieces and swallow the pieces. The general consensus is that soft food is more likely to promote plaque formation and hasten periodontal disease, but there is no research to support that view. The best choice is to consult with your regular veterinarian, or see the answer.

What kinds of treats are healthy for pet’s teeth?

There are as many treats available for pets as there are brands of food, and probably more. Some even claim to be good for your pet’s oral health. We recommend only those with the VOHC seal of approval (Veterinary Oral Health Council). These treats have research backing their claims that has been evaluated by a council of Board Certified Veterinary Dentists, and proven to do what they say. To check the approved list go to AVDC.org on the following link.

Can you do a treatment and consultation on the same day?

We prefer to do our consultations in the mornings and our treatments or procedures in the early afternoon. That way all pets in for procedures can wake up and go home the same day. It is also very important for us to be able to plan our procedures so that all our patients can be treated in a timely manner and our staff can perform efficiently and thoroughly. Examinations are usually done in advance of treatment so we can assess the actual time needed to complete the planned work, and provide you with a closer estimate of time and cost. Following your pet’s treatment, our trained staff will review your role in continuing your pet’s dental health care needs at home and in the future. Call our office today to schedule a free dental examination for you pet, and find out what his or her specific needs may be.

For additional information visit www.petdental.com.

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What Can You Do at Home for Your Pet’s Teeth?

It is very important to your pet’s health to receive regular dental home care just as you take care of your own teeth. Animals have no special ability to resist dental disease. Please read the following guidelines to help assist you in achieving a successful dental home care program for you and your pet.

Step 1: Examine and Touch the Mouth, Teeth, and Gums
The first step is to make it fun and relaxing for your pet. Use lots of praise and start slowly. Begin by offering a small amount of flavored pet toothpaste on your index finger as “a treat” daily for 5-7 days. This conditions your pet to expect a treat when they see the tube of toothpaste.

Step 2: Brushing the Teeth with Pet Toothpaste
After this initial introductory period, as you give the paste, use your index finger to rub the teeth and gums in small circles, the same motion as a toothbrush. Continue this for 5-7 days. Once your pet becomes comfortable with this, then progress to a soft bristle brush and continue the same routine. You may want to offer a small amount of the paste before and after brushing as a reward. Some pets will require daily brushing, while others can be maintained by brushing a few times a week.

*** Human toothpaste is not meant to be swallowed and should NOT be used on your pet.

Step 3: Mouth Rinses
Pets with advanced periodontal disease or pets that will not allow brushing may also benefit from an antiseptic oral rinse. These rinses are not as well liked as the flavored toothpastes and will not remove plaque as well as brushing, but they will help reduce plaque bacteria.

Step 4: Treats
There are products that have been proven in clinical trails to reduce plaque and tartar accumulation. Look for the Veterinary Oral Health Council (V.O.H.C.) Seal of Approval on products to ensure that are beneficial for your pet’s dental health.

*** Avoid hard treats such as real bones, hard plastic bones, and cow hooves as they can lead to broken teeth.

Step 5: Diets
Specially formulated diets are available that help reduce plaque and tartar build-up. Iams and Eukanuba diets have added chemicals that retard the mineralization of plaque to tartar, thus making the teeth easier to keep clean. Other diets such as Hill’s Prescription t/d diet works mechanically to “brush” the teeth when chewing. The t/d diet can be fed as the sole diet, or as treats.

Step 6: Dental Vaccine
There is currently a dental vaccine available for dogs known as the Porphyromonas Vaccine. The Porphyromonas Vaccine is the first and only vaccine to aid in the prevention of canine periodontitis which affects 85% of dogs over 3 years of age. It can be given to puppies over the age of 7 weeks or healthy adults and should be administered as 2 doses 3 weeks apart.

Step 7: Tooth-brushing Club
Should you find it difficult to brush your pet’s teeth regularly or if you find that you simply have a difficult time doing it by yourself, let the trained staff at Campus Vet help you. By purchasing a membership to our Tooth-brushing Club for your pet, you’ll receive a total of 8 one-on-one sessions with one of our trained veterinary technicians who will show you both proper technique as well as give you helpful pointers that you can use at home.

If you find you cannot perform dental home care on your pet, and you want to keep your pet healthy and avoid bad breath and dental disease, you MUST seek professional treatment more frequently! For most pets a professional cleaning once a year is adequate. Pets with pre-existing dental disease and those lacking dental home care may need professional care more often.